The Riad Ghita is just where you would wish to be in Fes: away from the more touristy western end of the medina, but not in the thick of the market itself. It is inside the medieval walls (with superb views from its roof terrace of the city, the surrounding mountains and especially the nearby Borj Sud on the majestic skyline) but a couple of blocks south of the car-free inner medina, so that one can reach the riad easily by taxi. A short and easy walk north takes one straight to Bab R'cif and the very heart of Fes around the Kairuoine mosque.
The Ghita is a stunning and stylish 16thc palazzo, built as all riads around a courtyard with a fountain. Its staff are immensely capable and welcoming, and can provide whatever you might want in the way of expert local advice and contacts. The food is so good that we dined in for each of the four nights we were there, which normally we would never do -- superb quality and range, and the breakfasts are exquisite and lightly and intelligently varied each day.
We took advantage of our hostess's recommendation of a guide for our first exploratory day in the medina, and were very glad that we did: Moustafa was tactful, informative and expert, so much so that we also arranged through the riad to be taken to the nearby Roman city of Volubilis. Stunning.